Rob Lemkin’s film takes the form of a narrated “road movie” in which British-Nigerian poet and activist, Femi Nylander, makes a journey through part of West Africa. He sets out to learn more about a brutal military expedition in 1898-99 led by French Colonialist Paul Voulet.
Before undertaking the trip, Nylander explains that he had read “Heart of Darkness”, a disturbing novella by Conrad published in 1899. He felt drawn to understand better what might lie behind the controversial vision of Africa presented in this novel, which turned out to have striking parallels with the real-life expedition led by Voulet.
Nylander journeys with two guides from west to east across southern Niger, following the modern-day road built on the 1899 route. This and similar late nineteenth century expeditions in West Africa were carried out with the aim of unifying French territories in Africa. The Voulet expedition was notorious for its extreme violence, depravity and genocidal actions.
The narrative is interspersed regularly with disturbingly relevant snippets from “Heart of Darkness” and old black and white footage of what can only be described as colonialist massacres of black people.
Nylander stops at key locations on the route to interview descendants of those whose lives were brutally destroyed or affected by what might be termed a military expedition gone rogue. The signs of transgenerational trauma are apparent in nearly every interview.
The interview with schoolgirls at Birni N’Konni has stayed in my mind. Knowing the history of the massacre experienced by their forebears, they are unable to relate to the idea that white French people could be decent human beings.
Another interview with former uranium miners is shocking as they explain how their health has been ruined by working in this French-led industry. It raises questions about how much former colonial countries are still exploiting this former colony.
The theme of reparation is a strong one in this film. It is discussed in the schoolroom at Birni N’Konni with the teacher attempting to answer the question of whether reparation for the acts of the colonialists should be sought. The teacher’s answer is clear: while some form of material reparation may be appropriate, there is no reparation for the lost and ruined lives that were the result of this and other colonial expeditions.
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